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Journey through the remote islands of eastern Indonesia tracing the path of pioneering British naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace aboard the traditional phinisi Ombak Putih. Accompanied by zoologist, evolutionary biologist and Wallace expert Dr George Beccaloni, this immersive expedition travels from the historic spice islands of North Maluku to the extraordinary reefs and limestone archipelagos of Raja Ampat. Following ancient trading routes through the heart of Wallacea — the biologically rich transition zone between Asia and Australasia named after Wallace himself — the voyage combines remarkable wildlife encounters, rich cultural experiences and some of the most biodiverse marine environments on Earth. Explore the very landscapes that inspired Wallace’s revolutionary ideas on evolution and species distribution more than 150 years ago. Search for spectacular birds of paradise deep within rainforest habitats, snorkel vibrant coral reefs teeming with marine life, visit isolated island communities and discover prehistoric rock art hidden among Raja Ampat’s towering karst islands. Throughout the journey, Dr George Beccaloni shares fascinating insights into Wallace’s life, discoveries and enduring scientific legacy, bringing a unique intellectual dimension to this extraordinary expedition. From the forests of Bacan Island to the reefs of Dampier Strait, each destination reveals another layer of the natural and cultural richness that captivated Wallace during his travels through the Malay Archipelago. Far more than a wildlife voyage, this is an expedition through one of the most important biogeographical regions on Earth — a journey shaped by exploration, discovery and a profound connection to the natural world.
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Day 1
Arrive in Ternate, embark Ombak Putih
Arrive in Ternate, once one of the world’s most important spice trading ports and the historic centre of the clove trade in North Maluku. Dominated by the volcanic cone of Mount Gamalama, the island played a pivotal role in both colonial history and scientific discovery. Before boarding Ombak Putih, explore several important sites connected to Alfred Russel Wallace’s time in Ternate, including Fort Tolukko, the Dutch-built Fort Oranje and the Kedaton Palace of the Sultan of Ternate. Visits throughout the city provide fascinating insight into the region’s long maritime history and Wallace’s years spent working throughout the Malay Archipelago. Later, continue to the riverside village of Dodinga — the very place where Wallace conceived the theory of natural selection during a bout of malaria in 1858. Surrounded by rainforest and overlooked by the ruins of an old Portuguese fort, the village remains one of the most significant locations in the history of evolutionary science. As evening falls, settle aboard the phinisi and begin the voyage south through the islands of North Maluku. NB* Due to the unpredictability of flight schedules we you need to arrive in Ternate the day before departure. Ask us about pre-tour accommodation options.
Meals: L,D
Day 2
Guraici Archipelago
Wake among the islands of the remote Guraici Archipelago, a protected marine region known for its turquoise lagoons, white-sand beaches and vibrant coral reefs. The day is spent snorkelling, kayaking and swimming among healthy reef systems alive with tropical fish, giant clams and colourful corals. Calm anchorages and crystal-clear waters provide an ideal introduction to the marine biodiversity of eastern Indonesia. Visits to local villages offer insight into daily life within this isolated island chain, where communities remain deeply connected to the surrounding sea.
Meals: B,L,D
Day 3
Bacan Island
Bacan Island holds a special place in the story of Alfred Russel Wallace. It was here that he documented some of his most important zoological discoveries while exploring the forests and volcanic slopes of the island during the 19th century. Accompanied by local guides, explore rainforest habitats in search of endemic wildlife including hornbills, parrots, lorikeets and the elusive cuscus. With luck, there may also be opportunities to encounter the spectacular Standardwing Bird of Paradise and the magnificent Golden Birdwing butterfly, famously described by Wallace as “the finest butterfly in the world.” The island also supports a small population of black-crested macaques — unusually the only monkeys found east of the Wallace Line within Maluku. Later, snorkel over reefs warmed by nearby volcanic hot springs where the contrast between cooler ocean currents and geothermal water creates a unique marine environment.
Day 4
Pisang Islands
Scattered across the remote waters of the Ceram Sea, the tiny Pisang Islands offer a picture-perfect tropical landscape of white beaches, swaying palms and coral-fringed lagoons. Spend the morning snorkelling vibrant reefs or simply relaxing ashore before the voyage continues eastward towards the remarkable limestone islands of Raja Ampat. As Ombak Putih sails overnight across open water, enjoy the changing seascapes and the growing anticipation of entering one of the most biodiverse marine regions on Earth.
Day 5
Lesser Birds of Paradise
An early morning excursion offers the chance to witness one of Indonesia’s most extraordinary wildlife spectacles — the courtship displays of the Lesser Bird of Paradise. Before dawn, local guides lead a forest walk to traditional display trees where the males gather to perform elaborate dances and vocal displays high within the rainforest canopy. Encounters are never guaranteed, but witnessing these remarkable birds in the wild is a truly unforgettable experience. The afternoon is spent relaxing on a secluded island with opportunities for snorkelling, swimming and beachcombing along pristine coral shores.
Day 6
Exploration and relaxation
Today focuses on the extraordinary marine environments of Raja Ampat. Snorkel nutrient-rich channels where soft corals and giant sea fans thrive in the currents flowing between the islands. Later, enjoy a slower pace ashore with time to explore white-sand beaches, swim in calm lagoons or kayak along the shoreline while juvenile blacktip reef sharks patrol the shallows nearby. As evening approaches, the phinisi anchors among remote island scenery far removed from the modern world.
Day 7
Misool Archipelago
The dramatic limestone islands of Misool rise from brilliant turquoise waters in one of Raja Ampat’s most visually spectacular regions. Thousands of small karst islets create a maze of hidden lagoons, caves and narrow waterways shaped over millennia by tides and erosion. Explore the archipelago by tender, visiting a rare marine lake inhabited by stingless jellyfish — one of Raja Ampat’s most unusual natural phenomena. The day also includes visits to ancient cave sites containing prehistoric rock art estimated to be between 3,000 and 5,000 years old. Handprints, fish, human figures and mysterious symbols painted across the limestone walls offer a fascinating glimpse into the region’s ancient maritime cultures.
Day 8
Batanta Island
Batanta Island introduces another side of Raja Ampat, where rainforest-covered hills descend into mangroves, waterfalls and coral reefs. Depending on tides and conditions, there may be opportunities to encounter manta rays in the nutrient-rich surrounding waters before continuing to sheltered snorkelling sites alive with reef fish and colourful corals. For those seeking a more active exploration, a short jungle walk follows a rocky riverbed inland towards hidden waterfalls surrounded by dense tropical forest. Later, paddleboards and kayaks offer another way to experience the calm lagoons and coastal scenery before continuing northward through the archipelago.
Day 9
Piaynemo
Wake beneath the towering limestone formations of Piaynemo, one of Raja Ampat’s most iconic landscapes. A short climb rewards panoramic views across a labyrinth of emerald islands scattered through luminous turquoise seas. After snorkelling nearby reefs, continue to the small island community of Arborek where traditional dance performances and village visits provide insight into the living traditions of the region’s Asai culture. The surrounding waters are among Raja Ampat’s most productive marine environments and snorkelling excursions may reveal reef sharks, turtles and, occasionally, manta rays gliding through the currents.
Day 10
Red Bird of Paradise
Another early morning wildlife excursion leads into the forests of Raja Ampat in search of the spectacular Red Bird of Paradise — one of the species Wallace was most eager to observe during his travels through the region. At dawn, males perform elaborate courtship displays high within the canopy while guides interpret the remarkable behaviours and ecology of these iconic birds. Returning to the coast, Ombak Putih sails through Dampier Strait, renowned for some of Raja Ampat’s richest coral reef systems. Strong nutrient currents attract enormous marine diversity, with opportunities to encounter large schools of fish and pelagic species while snorkelling. Later, visit Yenbeser Village where Wallace once stayed during his travels. If tides permit, there may also be an opportunity to visit a reconstruction of Wallace’s forest hut and learn more about his years spent working throughout the archipelago.
Day 11
Wilson's Birds of Paradise & Mansuar Island
The final wildlife experience of the voyage begins before sunrise near Saporkren Village. Accompanied by local guides, venture into the forest in search of the extraordinary Wilson’s Bird of Paradise — widely considered one of the world’s most beautiful birds. Watching the males carefully prepare and perform their intricate courtship dances upon the forest floor is one of Raja Ampat’s most memorable natural encounters. Back aboard the vessel, continue to Mansuar Island for snorkelling at Yenbuba, often referred to as “the fish bowl” for its astonishing marine abundance. The day concludes with a final snorkel near Mioskon Island before gathering on deck for a farewell dinner beneath the stars.
Day 12
Disembark in Sorong
After breakfast, bid farewell to the crew of Ombak Putih and transfer ashore in Sorong, gateway to Raja Ampat and the western edge of Papua. The expedition concludes having traced Wallace’s journey across some of the world’s most biologically fascinating islands — a voyage through the landscapes that helped transform our understanding of life on Earth.
Meals: B
What's included
What's not included
Dr. George Beccaloni is a zoologist, evolutionary biologist and historian of science. He worked at London’s Natural History Museum (NHM) for more than 20 years on butterflies and other insects. He enjoys natural history photography and travel and has visited Indonesia many times. George has studied Wallace’s life and work for more than 20 years. He is the founder and Director of the Wallace Correspondence Project. In 1999, he set up the Wallace Memorial Fund. It's restored Wallace’s grave in Dorset and paid for several memorials to him. Including a magnificent bronze statue now in the NHM. George has published many articles about Wallace. He also co-edited the book Natural Selection and Beyond: The Intellectual Legacy of Alfred Russel Wallace. He was the Historical Consultant for Bill Bailey’s Jungle Hero, an award-winning two-part BBC series about Wallace. He also helped the Folio Society produce the first ‘deluxe’ edition of Wallace’s famous travelogue The Malay Archipelago. Most importantly for you, he loves to share his childlike enthusiasm for natural history. In May 2023, he had the honour of being elected President of the General Section of the British Science Association's (BSA) Science Festival for 2023. Past Former Presidents of this section include luminaries such as Douglas Adams, Jonathan Miller, Roger Bannister. Wallace was President of the Biology Section of the BSA (then called the British Association for the Advancement of Science) in 1876.
You will also be accompanied by an Indonesian tour leader and crew who are highly experienced and competent in the ways of the sea, the islands, and the cultures we visit. They all speak English very well, and are on hand to look after you and ensure you have a very safe and enjoyable time.
Our voyages are designed for curious, capable travellers—not just passengers. While our itineraries offer a range of activities, from gentle zodiac cruises to more challenging hikes and snorkels, it’s essential to understand the nature of this experience before you join us. These expeditions are suitable for most travellers with an adventurous spirit, good health, and the ability to move confidently on a small vessel—especially in changing weather and sea conditions. Some shore landings and activities may involve uneven terrain, wet landings, or light scrambling. Boarding zodiacs and moving around the yacht may require balance and agility, though assistance is always provided. Our snorkelling program is designed for guests looking for a deeper connection with the places we visit. Of course, all activities are optional—and you’re welcome to enjoy the boat at your own pace. Not sure if this trip suits you? Please get in touch with our team—we’re here to help you choose the experience that’s right for you
Ombak Putih is a 24-guest sailing vessel with a mix of both traditional and modern design. Her hull and rigging are traditional, while the deck and interior which were refurbished in 2015 comprise areas of space, privacy and comfort. Ombak Putih is gaff-rigged ketch, meaning the foremast is higher than the aft mast.
Double Bed Cabin
All cabins are on the lower deck and are the same in basic style and décor. The boat was extensively renovated in 2015 with stylish new interiors that highlight the natural woods of the original pinisi design. New teak decks added in 2019. Each cabin is about 9sqm (97 square feet) and has a double bed (200 x 160cm) Each cabin has its own private en-suite bathroom with shower and toilet and sink. They are also individually air-conditioned. Ombak Putih cabins have a porthole letting in natural light. There is also plenty of storage space and lots of power points and USB chargers.
Twin Bed Cabin
All cabins are on the lower deck and are the same in basic style and décor. The boat was extensively renovated in 2015 with stylish new interiors that highlight the natural woods of the original pinisi design. New teak decks added in 2019. Each cabin is about 9sqm (97 square feet) and has two twin bunks (200 x 90cm), one atop the other. Each cabin has its own private en-suite bathroom with shower and toilet and sink. They are also individually air-conditioned. Ombak Putih cabins have a porthole letting in natural light. There is also plenty of storage space and lots of power points and USB chargers.
Triple Bed Cabin
All cabins are on the lower deck and are the same in basic style and décor. The boat was extensively renovated in 2015 with stylish new interiors that highlight the natural woods of the original pinisi design. New teak decks added in 2019. Each cabin is about 9sqm (97 square feet). Two cabins have one double bed and a single bunk designed for families. Each cabin has its own private en-suite bathroom with shower and toilet and sink. They are also individually air-conditioned. Ombak Putih cabins have a porthole letting in natural light. There is also plenty of storage space and lots of power points and USB chargers.
Per Person, Twin Share
Rating: ☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆
Explore places the big ships can’t with the widest selection of genuine small-ship, activity-first cruising. On Water Expeditions offers exceptional value, quality services, no hidden costs, and plenty of inclusions.
Don't watch the action sail past your window, dive into it! Designed for active travellers, these itineraries give you more time to adventure off the boat.
Activity is built into every journey. From paddling to hiking, enjoy a basecamp-style experience that injects fun, meaningful connections and thrilling adventure into it.
Each voyage is thoughtfully selected for low-impact exploration, supporting genuine conservation and sustainability while respecting local communities and environments.
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