My 10 Days Sailing on a Phinisi Liveaboard in Indonesia

From the moment I stepped barefoot onto the warm timber of the phinisi, I felt a grounding sensation.

And while I thought the highlight of the trip would be the islands and reefs we were heading toward, it didn’t take long for me to realise that the boat itself would be just as much of a standout. Mainly in the way it felt, the people who sailed it, and the heritage it carries.

Turns out, I didn’t wear shoes for the rest of the trip (other than when we went for a hike or onto shore), and I’d never felt more connected to the ocean.

The feel of the boat

Walking barefoot across the sun-warmed timber, I could feel the phinisi’s character immediately. It isn’t your typical slick, modern yacht; it creaks, breathes, and shifts with the sea. 

Built by hand from Indonesian hardwoods, every joint and curve reveals knowledge passed down for generations. It makes you slow down, pay attention, and connect with the rhythm of the ocean. 

Unlike modern cruise ships that power through the water, a phinisi moves with the ocean. Its sails harness the monsoon winds, and its hull glides easily over reefs.

My cabin was comfortable, with an en-suite and all the basics, but the deck was where I lived. It was the real drawcard. It was where I'd sip my coffee at sunrise and watch the ocean light right up. 

The people who sail it 

Most of the crew were from Sulawesi, descendants of the very boatbuilders who created our ship, and they were just incredible. Their presence reminds you that this isn’t just a boat; it’s a living culture. They bring warmth, local stories, and a level of care that goes beyond service. 

They’d even write the daily plan on a board so we knew whether to grab swimmers, cameras or reef shoes, so everything felt easy. The captain was very keen on fishing and had a licence, so while we were out having a snorkel, he would go and catch lunch – it didn't get any fresher than that! I was very impressed. 

Cultural moments

A place that really stayed with me was West Papua. We sailed past waterfalls tumbling straight from the jungle, visited small villages, and snorkelled coral gardens with no other boat in sight. 

During the village visits, it was really good to get that local experience and knowledge while we were out there, too, especially from the perspective of a local guide. There was even a small but meaningful impact we could have in some of the local communities we stopped by, supporting them in a simple way by buying fruit and vegetables to restock the boat.

The underwater world

Even though I’m not a diver, as a snorkeller, I was blown away by the beauty of the Coral Triangle. We slipped past uninhabited islands where jungle met white sand, and swam in reefs teeming with marine life and colour. You could spend three or four hours a day snorkelling and never get bored – electric corals, turtles, stingless jellyfish, and fish swimming in all directions. 

One day, we swam with whale sharks that had come to feed near traditional fishing platforms. On another day, we kayaked through mangroves looking for the Birds of Paradise.

The great thing about the itinerary was its flexibility. So if you prefer less activity, you could simply relax on a remote beach or just read a book on deck. There was never any pressure to join if you weren't up for it, but paddleboarding, snorkelling and hiking were available most days.

A particularly memorable moment was when dolphins came from miles off and swam directly beneath our bow. Our captain didn't hesitate and just cut the engine and slowed down, and for 15 minutes, the dolphins just rode the bow with us. It was so magical and so spontaneous, which is what life at sea should be.

Why it stays with you 

The beauty of the phinisi boat was how slow-paced each day was, making it easy to soak in the experiences and these moments in nature. It’s a journey that still lives within me long after the sails came down. Although I had gone looking for coral reefs and empty beaches, what I found was a deeper connection to Indonesian history, culture, and the sea itself.

So if you love the idea of taking your shoes off and letting the ocean reset your pace, a phinisi adventure might just be what's calling.

Words by Rachel Imber who travelled on the Papua's Birds of Paradise & Whale Sharks trip.